So, one of Italy’s top wine regions, which is already engrossed with allegations of fraud, is now in danger of losing it’s biggest export market. Us. The United States government has asked Italian wine authorities to certify that any/every bottle of Brunello di Montalcino imported into the USA is made from 100% Sangiovese, as it should, beginning next month. Stating “Without certification by laboratory analysis or a statement from the Italian government, the wines cannot be sold in the U.S.”

Why should we even have to say something like this. Brunello di Montalcino should be 100% Sangiovese.

Begining last November, Italian policia, under the direction of Siena’s public prosecutor, Nino Calabrese, have been investigating whether producers from Montalcino are using grapes other than Sangiovese in their Brunellos, in violation of DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) rules. This March, the policia impounded at least 1 million bottles of 2003 Brunello from Argiano, Castelgiocondo (owned by Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi), Pian delle Vigne (owned by Antinori) and Castello Banfi, telling the wineries that their Brunello vineyards contained illegal grapes. The producers, of course, are appealing and arguing that those vines are for their IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wines, their JVs, but the 2003 wines (and any subsequent vintages) remain trapped in the cellars while investigators finish their work. Calabrese will not say if there are anyother producers still under suspicion.

So, news of the investigation was reported to the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco and Trade Bureau (TTB). They sent several letters to the Italian Embassy in Washington asking for a list of producers under investigation and any other relevant information. After not receiving the information, the TTB sent a followup letter of ultimadium on May 7 informing the Italianos that if the matter is not resolved by June 9, the U.S. Customs bureau will hold any Brunello shipments unless “the importer submits a full and accurate statement of contents verified by laboratory analysis, or a statement from the government of Italy demonstrating that the product is made from 100 percent Sangiovese grapes.” The U.S. and the European Union have trade agreements that wine labels shall not contain false or misleading information. “It is all about truth in labeling,” said a source at the American Embassy in Roma. “It doesn’t matter if it is Parmigiano cheese or wine, the Italian product has to be what it says it is on the label. It’s about protecting the consumer.”

In Montalcino, at the Brunello Consorzio’s annual meeting on May 14, members of the community were trying to figure out how to deal with this latest development. “We are taking the situation very seriously and we are working hard to find an adequate response,” said Stefano Campatelli, director of the consortium. According to Campatelli, the Italian authorities refused to provide the list of producers under suspicion because the investigation is not yet complete. As part of the ongoing judicial process, the magistrate has appointed a group of scientists to analyze the wines involved in the court case, but the results will be published no earlier than September. America’s pissed.

“This is a diplomatic problem and I am confident it will be sorted out at the diplomatic level,” said Francesco Marone-Cinzano, the Consorzio’s president. But a block on U.S. imports would be a severe blow to Montalcino. The appellation produces 6.5 million bottles of Brunello a year, roughly 25 percent of which goes to America….or maybe not.

So now, one winery has decided it can’t wait for the wheels of the Italian justice system to turn. Argiano, one of four Montalcino estates known to be under investigation for allegedly violating DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) regulations, announced on April 21 that it would declassify its 2003 Brunello, labeling it an IGT, so that it can sell it now.

Bascially it’s the big houses. The ones that need to sell 50,000 to 75,000 cases of Brunello. The “Budwiser’s” and “Coors” of Brunello. If one tastes closer to a Californian Cabernet, then it probably has some illegal grapes in it. That being said, watch the prices on the ’04s you might be able to get some good bargains. Worst case scenario: you might get a wine that your friends that cannot appreciate good Italian wine may find just right.